As with all resin models the first thing you should do is rinse/clean the parts in a detergent to remove any traces of mould-release agent, sweat or oils from handling. This can make a significant difference to the strength of the final model, if you have some of our DG101 de-greaser fluid then just drop the parts into that and leave it for 24 hours, then remove and rinse. That’s it – all the parts will now be grease free.
In all case it is better to lightly sand the areas where resin meets metal which will create a FAR stronger bond than leaving them smooth. For glue we recommend FillGlu MV or HV Instant. (Silly name, but excellent glue).
On the base of the main hull of the jeep are a series of vents which should be either filed or cut flat – the little X’s mark where the vents are.
The next images show where the metal parts go on the underside of the vehicle as well as the front and rear mudguards. The wheels are best not fitted at this point for ease of painting later, however it wont make any great difference if you decide to glue them into place now.
Doors and the front windscreen should be added next… (the two different tops can be left un-glued allowing you to interchange them after painting.)
Placement of the doors is important as they need to be lined-up with both the doorframe and the rooftop.
Push the doors into the doorframe but do NOT GLUE at this point, then palce one of the roofs onto the vehicle (it will fit snugly and stay fixed) so tha tyou can align the upper edge of the door with the roof and the door-hinges with the stubs on the chasis of the jeep.
When you are happy with the positioning remove the roof and glue the door into place using some FillaGlu – I use a cocktail stick/toothpick to dab into place some glue, that way you don’t move the door from its position.
and…that is pretty much that.
You don’t have to fix into place any of the other parts (unless you have not yet fixed the wheels onto the hubs) and it is possible to inter-change the different roofs or leave the jeep open-backed.