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ISO Container Instructions

I will be going through the build of the new Ariadna ISO Container – there are some minor variations in the other faction containers but those are mostly to do with the logo area and should be straightforward as they all go in the same place and it is just a matter of copying the CB main faction badges.

1) Parts – two sheets of coloured 2mm MDF, one covered with paper, (pristine) and one weathered. 1 Small black 3mm MDF set of “hinges”, left and right polyprop frames and a bag of smaller polyprop parts and etched acrylic.

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2) Take the piece of weathered MDF and cut out the retaining lugs from the back of the mdf. Use a strong knife to do this and punch through the retaining areas, dont saw through them – they are <1mm in size so should be very easy to cut.

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3) Take the cut-out parts and glue the interior wall of the Container using a good wood glue – we recommend Deluxe Materials Super-Phatic :

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4) Push the parts firmly together as shown, and put to one side to dry.

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5) Take the pristine MDF sheet, flip it over and cut out the parts (it is best to leave the protective paper covering on the other side during assembly)

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6) Cut-out parts will look like this:

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7) When the inner parts are glued and dry take that and the “frame” sections of Polypropylene – in this case the “frame” part is white, but is different on different faction crates. There is a left and a right side, ensure that the pristine/clean side is facing toward you so that you glue the “dirty” face on to the container inner face (see next)
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8) The Inner section has the etched-in outline of where the parts go – so you can see that the white frame below perfectly overlays the etched in detail on the inner part of the container. Use a glue such as Deluce Materials “Tacky Glue” to glue the polypropylene into place.

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9)  NOTE: On the kickstarter parts there is a small alignment error in the polypropylene frame where the cut-in areas dont match up perfectly – just cut these out as shown on the images later – this error has been resolved in the retail versions.

 

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10) insert the inner-colour polypropylene – again make sure that the clean side is facing up towards you and glue-down the “dirty” side. Depending on the faction badge/logo that you have you may, or may not, have the round insert area.

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11) Place the outer part over the polypropylene to check that everything is in the right place to show through the cut-out areas:

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12) Take the outer part off, flip it over and carefully coat the bare-MDF surface with Tacky Glue – its important to get glue on the lettering areas as they gain great strength on the final container by being glued onto the polypropylene… however, dont put so much glue on those areas that it blobs up and looks ugly – IF you do put too much glue on it is easy to remove it off the polypropylene/MDF whilst it is still wet; just use a toothpick to take it out of the cut-out areas.

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13) There are a set of lugs that stick out from the inner container that help you position the outer section correctly.

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14) Its useful at this point to put some quick-clamps on the layers to hold them firmly together whilst the glue dries.

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15) Flip the container over and repeat the process for the other side:

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16) Parts for the rear of the container:IMG_2531

 

17) Glue the polyprop into place:

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18) and then glue the rear panel into place (still suing tacky-glue)  – Check that the bottom edge of the rear panel is flush with the bottom of the container – NOT with the bottom of the feet!
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19)  WIth both sides and the rear panel done you can now insert the top panel:

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20) Once the Top-Panel is in place you can wrap a couple of elastic bands around the container to hold it in shape whilst the glue dries.

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21) Whilst the glue is drying you can insert the black polyprop into the control panel slots (middle top of the side) and “build” whatever badge you have on your faction – in this case start with the white circle, then add the light-blue cross, then finally the red cross to “build” the Ariadna badge.

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22) We can now move on to the doors while the main container is setting up:

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23) Glue the polyprop into place with tacky glue again – once again check to ensure that the “clean” side of the polyprop is showing through the cut-out text areas… and then glue into place the interior door panel to make a “sandwich”

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24) Its best to quick-clamp these, make sure that the edges are neatly aligned.

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25)  Switch back to the main container and cut-out the 3mm black “Hinges” from the small black MDF panel. The hinges are shaped to fit snugly into the inserts on the sides of the container.

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26) The outer edge of the hinges should be flush with the outer side of the container – use either tacky glue or Super-phatic for these and ensure that the glue is dried before trying to attach the doors later on.

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27)  Going back to the doors, you can now glue into place the top hinge – this consists of a lower part with a hole cut in it, and a blank part with no hole cut in it.

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28) Glue together and glue into place the top Hinge – but ONLY attach the lower hinge part with the hole in it – VERY IMPORTANT – do NOT glue on the lower blanking part otherwise you will not be able to attach the doors later on (see below)

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29) Once the door hinges on both the doors and the container are solidly glued – and please do ensure that they are – you can move on to fixing the doors on to the container:
Firstly check the position of the hinges by gently, but firmly, pushing the door into place as shown below:
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30) Then take the length of Vinyl rod that will be the hinge – vinyl rod is very smooth and feels slightly “greasy” and makes a wonderful hinge that does not need lubrication – it has been designed to be a tight fit though, so be firm, but gentle with it especially when pushing it through the MDF holes.  It is advised to slightly taper the one end using sandpaper so that it fits easily into the Holes and it can then be easily pushed all the way up into the upper hinges so that you can make out the perfect length of it:

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Mark off the correct length with a Sharpie or similar, then pull the rod out.

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ut the vinyl rod to the correct length and push it back into place:

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The bottom end of the vinyl rod should NOT protrude from the bottom of the lower hinge (see above)

31) Note: Because the top and bottom hinge parts are solid – the correct length of vinyl rod is very important so that you can glue into place the lower part of the bottom hinge:


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Do the left hand door the same way and glue the final part of the lower hinge into place:

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32) The main construction is now finished and we just need to add the acrylic: Cut out the parts form the rear of the acrylic frame and remove the plastic and paper coverings:

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33) The acrylic is “reverse etched” which means that the side that has the etching on it should be on the face that sits against the black polyprop i.e. the etched side is on the inside, not the outside. Don’t put glue under the acrylic, just use a bit of tacky-glue along a couple of its edges to hold it in place.

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34) Do the acrylic parts on the sides and doors and you are now complete with the build – Please note that the doors are deliberately tight – when you close them the edges will meet and exert a little bit of pressure against each other, which will allow them to stay closed – this is perfectly correct and as intended – closing the doors together, so that they meet before fully closed, and then gently pushing them closed, will “jam” the doors against one another and keep them shut.

 

35) Finally, when everything is dried and glued, remove the paper covering and you will be elft with a pristine ISO Container with detailed interior and functional hinges… just big enough to hide a REM missile launcher or similar!
Also remember that the “feet” allow you stack containers one on top of another, in either direction, and still be able to open and close doors – there are also new products coming that will fit inside the containers and allow you do other game-functional arrangements.

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